Crow Woman Dancing

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One of the interesting things about watching the participants of the Crow Fair ceremonies and dancing is seeing how many of the competitors have melded the traditional and the modern  to create to create a unique style all of their own. This blending of the old and new complements each other and shows the evolution of enhancing the old with the new until it becomes a part of the culture.

The traditional style is so strong and shows through as such, leaving no doubt as to what is the dominant style. The accessories added, effortlessly become one with the look. The supreme confidence of the wearer makes this effect even stronger.

The crow Fair creates a never-ending view of past and present. To be able to see the present celebrate the past yet adapt to the future as well is a fascinating experience. This is not a static culture. It is dynamic yet never loses touch with its past. One wants to know what the future will bring.

Portrait Of A Crow Dancer

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When I was at The Crow Fair last August I had the opportunity to photograph many of the participants. There was constant dancing and drumming and everywhere you looked was a swirling kaleidoscope of color and movement. Dozens and dozens of dancers participated in the contests and different ceremonies. It seems as if one of the reasons for the festivities was to create a sensation of constant movement, color and sound.

Yet every once in a while you would find someone standing motionless, watching, alistening, being in the moment. This Crow dancer was one of those who took a moment out of the frenetic activity to perhaps reflect on his heritage and the part he plays in it.

Periodically I will be featuring portraits of the many dancers from several tribes. This is the first featured participant. I am proud to present Crow Dancer.

Crow Fair 2015 Camp Life

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Camp life at the Crow Fair is filled with opposites. Some times the camp is a wash of chaotic activity as everyone gets ready to attend the dance ceremonies or the parades and other times, like this morning, which happened to be a Sunday morning, everything was calm and serene.

Walking through the camp in the early morning just after sunup everything is still. There are no motor sounds yet from vehicles, or people calling from one area to another. It is quiet. The only sounds you hear are the horses gently calling to each other and the quiet sounds of camp life where people are just stirring, thinking about getting breakfast going, standing out by their lodges seeing what kind of day it is going to be. It is a good time to see the camp.

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Horses are feeding, taking advantage of this quiet time. Soon enough they’ll be as excited as anyone else in the camp to be getting ready to attend the various activities.

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The teepees are clustered closely together which usually means a large family group are all settled in next to one another.

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Many groups fly the American flag above their camp.

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A horse is waiting for someone to come and take him the river for a long drink. He’s just heard some other horses go by as early risers get a start on the day.

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This is 2015 not 1876 and the rides are different for some of the people. It’s likely there is a horse tucked away somewhere but there is also a new breed of horse, a mechanized one, and it seems fitting to see it tied up in front of the lodge.

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It’s unsure whether these folks that occupy this lodge are coming or going as it looks vacant. The topping to go on the arbor isn’t all in place up on the roof yet, so we’re betting on their coming.

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Horses resting up for the day to come. Their owners lodge is just visible up over the hill.

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There are many of these wall tents in the camp. Someone told me they serve as overflow if the teepees are overcrowded. He also told me he’d rather be in a teepee as the tents were too hot. The opening at the top of the teepees can be adjusted to let the hot air out so they were cooler to be in. After 100+ degree days any thing that would offer coolness was in high demand.

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Placed against the tree line for shade and to block any wind this is a well placed group of lodges.

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These riders are taking their horses down to the river for a drink. It’s also a good time to talk about whatever young women talk about.

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The doors of the lodges are all facing the trees. you can see extra lodge poles leaning against the tree line.

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There were some teepees that were decorated or painted but the majority were of white weathered canvas.

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One evening after the dances ended very late, it seems that my vehicle misplaced itself and I wandered for several hours through the maze of teepees trying to find it. By about 1:30 in the morning I had found all 1200 of the tepees but not my Jeep. Of course never having been lost before in my life I neglected to bring a flashlight and since there is a major absence of street lights in a Crow camp, finding ones way about was difficult. Fortunately I learned an old Indian trick that night and turned on my flashlight app on my cell phone and eventually I found this red striped teepee that I remembered seeing on the way in and shortly after found the Jeep. There are  always adventures on these trips, some big, some little. This was a little one even though it didn’t feel that way as it was happening.

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There were some teepees whose decoration had an unmistakable meaning

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Horses picketed amongst the lodges was an amazing sight to see. The mix of old ways and new was constantly presented to the observer.

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The patina on these lodges indicated that they had seen plenty of use. The ivory color was perfect for the setting.

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It’s getting a little later in the morning now and this horse was definitely interested in going to the river. Shortly after this picture was taken he got his wish.

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This is the Little Bighorn river as it wends its way through the camp. It’s quite shallow here so it’s easy to ride the horses down to the edge.

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Some of the horses were eager to wade out in the water where it was slightly deeper, others preferred to drink at the  bank.

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Boys bringing ponies down to get their drink. There was no horse-play here, pardon the pun, as these guys proceeded to get the stock watered. No rock throwing or goofing around, they got the job done well and were soon on their way back to camp.

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A teepee set up along the river. They had shade all day and you could hear the river running by as well. A bonus for picking a great spot.

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An overview of a small portion of the camp from a little ridge that ran along the back of the camp.

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While out on the edge of the camp and looking towards the plains a flock of Prairie chickens passed by going swiftly over the exposed hilltop to the safety of the ravine on the other side.

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This is a panorama made up of 25 pictures stitched together to try and show the size of the camp. If the picture were printed out it would be over 8′ long. Consequently to compress it down to this size so it would fit on to the page of the blog, details are very small indeed. If you click on it to see the slightly larger version you can see a little more.  But as it was only intended to give you a sense of scale and an overview of just how large the encampment is, hopefully it does that, even if you can’t make out who it is sitting in front of that back teepee is.

It is a good feeling to see that many lodges together and the people that fill them living together in harmony. When you think that there might be an average of four people to a lodge that is 4800 people. That’s a small town any where you want one.. What a great experience to have, to be able to see and take part in this get together. Crow Fair 2015.

Crow Fair 2015 Pre-Parade Staging

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One of the surprising things about life is you are never too old to be surprised. After watching the parade and seeing everyone one in their proper places and the show going off flawlessly you think that it was a simple thing to have a parade. You called up a bunch of folks, got them together, put in them in a line and said “Go.”

Nothing could be further from the truth. The surprise and the fun was that you are totally unprepared for the activity and monumental cooperation it takes to get dozens and dozens of people together and have them all in their proper places ready to go when the parade starts.

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People begin drifting in by ones and twos.

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Everyone is properly dressed

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They’re excited

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They’re ready to have fun

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Royalty is arriving with the littlest starting off first

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It’s a chance to see friends and exchange greetings

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And show off the cool stuff you get to carry with you

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The horses are arrayed in all their finery and prance in place eager to be off

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It’s also a chance to show off the incredible regalia needed to outfit the horses and riders properly, some of which are the result of hours of work to create, each piece being unique.

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For some it is also a time for reflection

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Colors, textures, craftsmanship and historical context are everywhere you look

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Like any big maneuver it is often hurry up and wait

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And it can be time for those last minute adjustments

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As in every event that happens at the Crow Fair it is the drums that tie everything together.

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Members of the parade committee help everyone find their places in line

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And then suddenly it is time. They’re off to start another parade

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The mounted riders head out first and everyone hurries to make sure they’re in the correct spot

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After the mounted riders start, the floats begin to enter the line up. These Princesses are smiling and happy to be under way.

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Some are wide-eyed with the wonder of it all. How many parades will this young person participate in? Hopefully many.

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Families feel the excitement

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Young mothers and their children are proud

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What could be better than riding on a float in the best parade in the world

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And as usual the veterans are not forgotten. They’re becoming fewer and fewer but those still here with us receive the respect of everyone, viewers and participants alike.

They’re off to complete the parade. They’ll travel throughout the camp and wind up back here to disband and see who won their respective categories. The next post will show that process as the paraders’ return. Stay tuned.

Crow Fair 2015 Parade

The main parade at the Crow Fair is one event everybody looks forward to. It ‘s a chance to see the Fair participants in full regalia riding their horses or on a float presenting their best efforts for the fair judges and the parade viewers as well. It’s a fun event for everybody. The participants get to wave to fiends and family in the crowd. The viewers get to see an amazing sight and everybody’s happy. This has got to be a favorite time for everyone.

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As in every event they hold the colors are presented.

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Usually the parade has categories but occasionally things get changed u a little and you get a different look. Today there were a lot of individuals parading in and out of category groups.

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There’s always Royalty in a parade and there is a lot of royalty at the Crow Fair.

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An experienced rider in the men’s War Bonnet category.

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Some times the parade is so good you just have to smile

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Lodge poles, a good horse, a hat to keep the sun off your face and it’s a great parade

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An elder responding to friend in the crowd. Everyone is good-natured and has fun calling back and forth.

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A segment of the Reservation Hat category passes in review.

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The Crow are very partial to their horses and any cane to show off good stock is taken advantage of.

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Young women get a chance to show off their finery.

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A young warrior rides a painted horse. The symbols and colors are all important.

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A young woman wearing an Elk Tooth dress shades her eyes with her fan. It was 107° the day this parade was held.

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And the sun was bright and hot but that didn’t keep the parade from going on.

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All ages participate

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Eve down to the youngest. If they can hang on they can be in the parade

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That counts for the horses too.

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These young braves are on their way to being fierce warriors, they just need a little more time.

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Letting out a huge cry and catching up is all part of the parade

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The real stars of the parade are the elders, both men and women. Within them lies the knowledge and experience that needs to be passed down to the younger members of the tribe. They are the reservoirs of heritage and pride and it shows on each and every face.

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As the parade winds down ad passes by there is a final wave and it’s over for the day. A parade like this is a monumental task to put on. In the next post we’ll visit the staging area where all the magic happens. Stay tuned.

Crow Fair 2015 Portraits

Portraits are about people. About emotion, attitude, about the way they’re feeling. What you see first of course is how they look, which after you study a portrait for awhile becomes the least important part of the process. What is important is whether the portrait engages you. Whether it makes you stop and look at it and perhaps feel a bond take place with the subject. It creates a connection that is difficult to put into words but is real just the same. Hopefully that will happen for you as view these portraits of members of the Crow tribe. They are a striking people.

There will be very few words used to describe the images. You know what you’re seeing and you know how it affects you. This is a moment where you get to quietly meet a wonderful group of people. These are people of the Crow Nation.

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A mother and child finding a quiet moment together.

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There is strength here

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Thinking things through

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These eyes have seen much

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Straight forward gaze and an unflinching look at the world

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Calm and at peace, secure in who he is

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All thoughts turn inward as her turn to dance approaches

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Seeing into the future, or the past

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Enjoying the spectacle while resting. A quiet smile for the photographer.

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A young man watching intently. Age isn’t a factor in the desire to do well.

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Everyone seems to exhibit extraordinary self-control in the midst of all the activity.

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Occasionally one takes time out for adjustments, both inside and outside

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Determination and focus is paramount

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Everything is watched closely.

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Color is everywhere and poise shows it off

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Tired but paying close attention

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A lovely woman, a lovely smile

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Intensity is always there

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A moment of rest

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This is who he is at the moment

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I am a member of this tribe, I belong.

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Can you be in the past and present at the same time…sometimes

Crow Fair 2015 Men’s Dancing

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Dancing is a central part of the Crow Fair and the men’s competition is very important to them. It is a chance to show off their regalia and their best footwork and perhaps most importantly demonstrate their history and culture. Dancing is extremely serious business and not taken lightly. It is a chance to show off who they are and what their beliefs mean to them.

There are many different dance categories and they are broken down by age groups. This post is not about explaining what each category is but it is more a presentation of the colors, textures, style, symbols and meanings important to each dancer and the tribe in general. Ceremony and the spiritual connection with their past can be seen in every step they take. This is not a show, this is their life.

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Elder dancers display more traditional styles.

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Younger dancers display more exotic styles

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Some are very traditional

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The younger boys have each chosen the style they want to perform

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A group of fancy dancers display the incredible variety of colors for their dance category

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Postures are an important part of each dance style

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So is intensity

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Decorations and symbols adorn each dancers regalia and the items they carry.

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Focus, making sure each step is performed in the proper manner requires maximum concentration.

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Feathers and perfect beadwork complete the look required

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The emotion of each presentation can be seen in every movement.

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Two different styles performing the same dance

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Every accessory is perfect from head to toe

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Lost in the dance one can see the powerful historical connection for the dancers

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And the incredible feelings displayed as the dance continues

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Many clothing styles are a study in contrast

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While there is simply wild abandonment in the fancy dancers regalia

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This style of dancing requires maximum effort on the part of the dancers

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And it shows as the dance ends.

The dancing goes on nearly continuously throughout the fair and the stamina of the participants is remarkable. Many times the dances last deep into the night and the sounds of the drums and the singers can be heard throughout the camp. It is a  constant whirlwind of activity and excitement. The next post will bring you the women’s dancing. Stay tuned.

Crow Fair 2015 Grand Entry

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The Grand Entry at Crow Fair is the beginning of all the festivities that take place in the Arbor. The Dance contests, ceremonies, the general get together when everyone dances for the sheer enjoyment of it. It is the center of all the social activities. It always begins with the color guard presenting the flags.

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A dancer performs a special dance to complete the flag presentation.

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Then the procession begins with the Royalty entering the circle. These are all the Princesses that have been selected by the various tribes participating to represent them.

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The men follow.

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The elder warriors leading the men into the circle.

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Followed by the women dancing their way around the arbor

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There are  many different emotions displayed by the participants. This is a very special time for all.

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They continue dancing, gradually completing the circle.

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Everyone who can, participates.

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Each category of dancers enters in their turn.

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The men’s group puts maximum effort forth as they enter.

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Each dancer showing his own style as they enter.

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Women take their place in the circle.

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Young mothers with their children dance and bring their young ones into the circle as soon as they can carry them into the arbor.

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An elder warrior pensively completes another round as everyone that can fit enters the arbor.

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Younger warriors enter in their turn

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As the circle tightens and fills towards completion the dancers begin to pick up the pace.

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There is movement and color everywhere one looks.

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The drummers are tireless. The beat, the songs, the energy, keep everyone focused and the dancers are totally dependent on them. The ceremonies couldn’t take place without them. They are the heroes in the background, usually unseen but always heard.

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The circle is complete. All the participants are inside the arbor, the circle has tightened to make room for everyone and the Grand Entry is complete. Soon the dancing will start and continue until the fair is over.

Over the next few days we e will bring you the Dancing, the Parade, Portraits, the Rodeo, and the Closing ceremonies. Stay  tuned.

Crow Fair 2015

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Crow Fair is here again. This is the 97th year that it has taken place on the banks of the Little Big Horn river. It is billed as the Teepee capital of the world and it lived up to its name again as there were over 1200 lodges set up. That would be one thousand two hundred teepees. That is a lot of teepees. The camp is located between Custer’s Last Stand, or the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument as it’s officially known, and extends along the river to the edge of the town of Crow Agency in Montana. That’s a distance of a little under three miles and maybe ¾ of a mile deep.

The official starting date for all the ceremonies and festivities was August 12th  and lasted until August 17th, but as you can imagine an endeavor this large didn’t happen overnight. For a couple of weeks in some cases, the participants began moving in and setting up their lodges, creating a camp that hasn’t been seen on this scale since probably 1876. All of the teepees have been set up according to family groups and were usually grouped in a circle if possible with an arbor made of poles set in the ground to form a rectangle in the middle. This framework was then covered with fresh-cut branches with their leaves still green to cover the framework and provide shade. As you walked through the camp you could see family groups sitting at the tables having a meal or simply talking to while away the hours between activities.

They also brought their horses and they were kept in pens set up near the lodges where they could be fed and cared for. In the morning and evening the kids were given the task of seeing that the horses were watered. This meant riding them bareback, usually while leading another, down to drink out of the Little Bighorn river. The only difference between now and a hundred years ago were the clothes the kids wore. Lots of jeans and t-shirts and tennis shoes. Lots of smartphones too. It was not unusual to see a youngster riding a horse down to the river texting on the way. Many of the horses seemed to find relief in the cool water and would venture out midway into the river to stand for as long as they were allowed to. Some of the kids were not averse to jumping in the water either as there were several days when the temperature was over 100°.

Over the next few days we’ll be bringing you highlights from the Crow Fair and Rodeo. There was singing and drumming and non-stop dancing. People dressed in regalia that many made themselves. There was ceremony and traditions paid homage to, and most of all a gathering of the Crow people to celebrate their lives and history. Stay tuned.