Night Comes To The Blackfeet Camp

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The day has been blisteringly hot. Smoke from the western forest fires has been drifting past the camp, sometimes so thick you felt like you were next to the flames. There was some relief from the heat as the sun began its journey past the horizon but not that much. There was no relief from the smoke.

As you looked about the camp the lodges began to fade to black, the lodge poles standing out in stark relief against the sky. But the sky. How beautiful was the sky. If it hadn’t been the result of the massive catastrophe that the smoke represented the resulting colors caused by the sunlight’s passage through it would have been the most beautiful thing you’d ever seen. It was still gorgeous but you knew in the back of your mind this sunset wouldn’t have been this intense if it hadn’t been for the smoke.

However reality is what is happening right now. These events are real. The sun setting, the smoke, the camp, the dancing, everything is real. You might wish the smoke wasn’t there. You might wish the heat was less, but it isn’t and this what you have to accept as an observer and participant in the life that is happening  around you right now. To get the most out of life embrace the time you’re in. Savor every moment because this experience will not come again.

Crow Fair 2015 Closing Ceremony

We’ve come to the end of the Crow Fair for 2015. This is the day that the closing ceremony is held and that concludes the Fair. The ceremony takes place throughout the camp. The four points of the compass have been marked and as the people gather at the first one the drums commence. The participants dance around the circle, and then they move on to the next point until all points have been visited and the final dance is done.

One of the participants told me that this is their most important get together. It is their biggest holiday. It’s like their New Year’s Day and the ceremony performed art the end of the get together covers several aspects of their life. It is a time of thanksgiving for the good things that happened last year, it is a blessing on the people and their land, and it is a time to ask for a good year ahead. It is a religious and spiritual holiday as much as a secular and celebratory one.

The ceremony consists of the participants dancing around the drummers while songs are sung, They dance in a circle then leave that starting point to complete the same activities at each of the four points. When they’re finished they have danced in the circle four times and have completed the bigger circle of celebrating at each point. Another circle has been completed.

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Thesis the first point of the ceremony and the drummers have started. A small crowd of participants have gathered to commence dancing.

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Those that been chosen to lead the dancers during the ceremony are the first to enter the circle. Soon others will join into the line and dance.

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The men started the dance and the women soon join them

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They dance around the drummers with more people joining

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When the correct number of revolutions around the drummers have been taken and the ceremonial procedures completed they start out for the next point on the circuit.

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By now many more dancers have joined the line and follow on to the next point

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The drummers are the last to leave and bring up the rear of the line playing as they walk.

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The leaders are nearing the second point as they walk by teepees and a horse

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The leaders  are continually dancing as they head into the second area

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They begin to dance the circle with everyone following

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The dancers wave as a greeting that can mean hello or good by

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The circle is fully formed and the dancers wait as ceremonial issues are completed

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There is a final dance around the circle

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Participants are deeply moved during the ceremonies

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They leave the second point to journey to the third

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By now there are a huge number of participants as more and more join the journey. The  weather has been threatening since the start of the ceremony and it is approaching the dancers with high winds and the threat of rain. A few sprinkles have  started and the temperature has dropped significantly.

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At the third point the rain is closing in from the right, just over the crest of the low hill. The dancers continue and the circle is becoming very large as all the dancers fill up the circle. The wind is becoming much stronger and there is a sense of heightened drama as if the weather feels the need to join with the ceremony.

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The rain broke and as the celebrants journeyed to the fourth and final point, umbrellas came out for those that had them and others continued on disregarding the rain

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The ritual greeting is offered

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The drummers following never missed a beat, the sounds of the drum holding everybody together.

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At the final point of the ceremony the drummers set up, the pipe has been lit and passed among them as it has been at every stop of the ceremony, the circle has formed and the rain is ignored as it falls harder.

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The participants stand quietly in the downpour listening and watching the final moments of the ceremony. This only happens once a year and it is happening now. Everything is very real in what could be a surreal experience. The ceremony, the rain, the feeling of connection with the earth and each other is a feeling felt by everyone participating, dancers and viewers alike. This is one of those experiences that has been etched on my soul. The Crow and others tribes have retained something important that I believe we have lost. A sense of community and family that transcends weather and adversity and even time to create a bond that is reinforced by these gatherings. When they leave this ceremony and go their separate ways they are not apart, they are not alone, they have their tribe, their culture, their heritage and each other. They have a real feeling of belonging. Something that is disappearing in our culture. I envy them.

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With the final ceremony completed and the rain letting up a little everyone dances a final circuit of the circle then it’s over. The 2015 Crow Fair is done for this year.

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After the closing ceremonies are over those members of the tribe that live some distance away begin the task of taking down their lodges, tearing down the rest of the camp and heading home. it is a bittersweet moment to see the bare lodge poles sticking up. But as they say, There’s always next year.

Crow Fair 2015 Camp Life

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Camp life at the Crow Fair is filled with opposites. Some times the camp is a wash of chaotic activity as everyone gets ready to attend the dance ceremonies or the parades and other times, like this morning, which happened to be a Sunday morning, everything was calm and serene.

Walking through the camp in the early morning just after sunup everything is still. There are no motor sounds yet from vehicles, or people calling from one area to another. It is quiet. The only sounds you hear are the horses gently calling to each other and the quiet sounds of camp life where people are just stirring, thinking about getting breakfast going, standing out by their lodges seeing what kind of day it is going to be. It is a good time to see the camp.

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Horses are feeding, taking advantage of this quiet time. Soon enough they’ll be as excited as anyone else in the camp to be getting ready to attend the various activities.

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The teepees are clustered closely together which usually means a large family group are all settled in next to one another.

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Many groups fly the American flag above their camp.

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A horse is waiting for someone to come and take him the river for a long drink. He’s just heard some other horses go by as early risers get a start on the day.

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This is 2015 not 1876 and the rides are different for some of the people. It’s likely there is a horse tucked away somewhere but there is also a new breed of horse, a mechanized one, and it seems fitting to see it tied up in front of the lodge.

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It’s unsure whether these folks that occupy this lodge are coming or going as it looks vacant. The topping to go on the arbor isn’t all in place up on the roof yet, so we’re betting on their coming.

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Horses resting up for the day to come. Their owners lodge is just visible up over the hill.

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There are many of these wall tents in the camp. Someone told me they serve as overflow if the teepees are overcrowded. He also told me he’d rather be in a teepee as the tents were too hot. The opening at the top of the teepees can be adjusted to let the hot air out so they were cooler to be in. After 100+ degree days any thing that would offer coolness was in high demand.

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Placed against the tree line for shade and to block any wind this is a well placed group of lodges.

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These riders are taking their horses down to the river for a drink. It’s also a good time to talk about whatever young women talk about.

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The doors of the lodges are all facing the trees. you can see extra lodge poles leaning against the tree line.

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There were some teepees that were decorated or painted but the majority were of white weathered canvas.

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One evening after the dances ended very late, it seems that my vehicle misplaced itself and I wandered for several hours through the maze of teepees trying to find it. By about 1:30 in the morning I had found all 1200 of the tepees but not my Jeep. Of course never having been lost before in my life I neglected to bring a flashlight and since there is a major absence of street lights in a Crow camp, finding ones way about was difficult. Fortunately I learned an old Indian trick that night and turned on my flashlight app on my cell phone and eventually I found this red striped teepee that I remembered seeing on the way in and shortly after found the Jeep. There are  always adventures on these trips, some big, some little. This was a little one even though it didn’t feel that way as it was happening.

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There were some teepees whose decoration had an unmistakable meaning

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Horses picketed amongst the lodges was an amazing sight to see. The mix of old ways and new was constantly presented to the observer.

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The patina on these lodges indicated that they had seen plenty of use. The ivory color was perfect for the setting.

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It’s getting a little later in the morning now and this horse was definitely interested in going to the river. Shortly after this picture was taken he got his wish.

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This is the Little Bighorn river as it wends its way through the camp. It’s quite shallow here so it’s easy to ride the horses down to the edge.

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Some of the horses were eager to wade out in the water where it was slightly deeper, others preferred to drink at the  bank.

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Boys bringing ponies down to get their drink. There was no horse-play here, pardon the pun, as these guys proceeded to get the stock watered. No rock throwing or goofing around, they got the job done well and were soon on their way back to camp.

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A teepee set up along the river. They had shade all day and you could hear the river running by as well. A bonus for picking a great spot.

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An overview of a small portion of the camp from a little ridge that ran along the back of the camp.

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While out on the edge of the camp and looking towards the plains a flock of Prairie chickens passed by going swiftly over the exposed hilltop to the safety of the ravine on the other side.

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This is a panorama made up of 25 pictures stitched together to try and show the size of the camp. If the picture were printed out it would be over 8′ long. Consequently to compress it down to this size so it would fit on to the page of the blog, details are very small indeed. If you click on it to see the slightly larger version you can see a little more.  But as it was only intended to give you a sense of scale and an overview of just how large the encampment is, hopefully it does that, even if you can’t make out who it is sitting in front of that back teepee is.

It is a good feeling to see that many lodges together and the people that fill them living together in harmony. When you think that there might be an average of four people to a lodge that is 4800 people. That’s a small town any where you want one.. What a great experience to have, to be able to see and take part in this get together. Crow Fair 2015.

Crow Fair 2015 Indian Relay Races

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Indian Relay Races, it is one of the most exciting horse races you will ever see. It could just have easily been called a Demolition Derby on Four Hooves. The premise is simple you start with four teams of horses assigned to their own space along the fence of the grandstand. Each team has only one rider. They begin the race like any other with the four riders racing away from the starting line, but then that’s when things go different.

They race around the track and as they approach their team of horse handlers they skid to a stop, jump off the horse they’ve been riding, jump on a new one and take off for another lap around the track. They repeat this once more, racing in, jumping off, jumping onto a new horse, take another lap and the first one across the finish line is the winner.

That’s how it works in theory. And the race does follow those rules exactly but you have to remember you’re dealing with horses that are crazy wild to run, riders willing to do nearly anything to get on that next horse, and handlers that have to control several other horses in close proximity with the team next door, whose horses and riders are also just as determined on winning as you are, and what you have is Chaos, plain and simple. Things do not happen as planned. Riders with big leads may have trouble getting on the next horse and another rider takes the lead. This may happen on every lap.There is no sure thing in Indian Relay Races, other than something really, really exciting is going to happen.

In the animation above you can get a sense of how fast-paced and chaotic it is when the riders begin to change horses. If you notice the Blue team as they begin their switch, the horse handler is applying an old trick to manage an unruly horse. This horse had been rearing up and trying to break loose, and it was close to becoming unmanageable until the handler reached up and bit his ear, just like Mike Tyson might, biting down and hanging on until the rider could mount and be off again. Like I said Indian Relay Races are different.

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In another part of the race a rider rode in fast, sometimes these horses can be going close to 30 miles per hour when they are entering into the changing area, mis-stepped as he dismounted, and got run over by his horse. Operating on sheer adrenalin he leapt up and mounted his last horse and continued the race. Unfortunately his mis-step put this lap leader into last place.

Indian Relay Races are exciting, chaotic, addicting. And in Montana you can legally bet on them if you want to lose your money. This is a cheap heart test for those of you who need to check it every so often, and it’s included free in the price of admission. If you crave excitement you will love Indian Relay Racing.

Crow Fair 2015 Rodeo

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Rodeo! This is the adrenaline rush of the Crow Fair. As usual the colors are displayed to open the rodeo, then the action gets under way. The rodeo grounds are adjacent to the Crow camp but set back off the river aways on the hot dusty plains. This seems fitting for the activities about to take place. There was no wind today thankfully, although the temp was up near 100°, but for those missing it and the wind-blown dust it carried the events occurring provided all the dust a person could want.

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The first event was steer riding which is sort of like Bull riding 101. It’s one of the events the younger riders use to graduate to riding the big bulls.

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Don’t be fooled by the smaller size of the steers. Think of it as the difference between being hit by a bus and being hit by a Yugo. They both hurt.

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While waiting for the next event to be set up one of the pickup men that work the arena salvaging cowboys and herding loose stock back into the pens, puts his horse through some fancy footwork.

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Saddle bronc riding is the event all rodeos are built around. This is where you see some of the most classic poses in Western art. Thousands of paintings and photos have been published showing cowboys pitted against bucking horses.

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The horses leap into the air in long-running jumps

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They crow-hop

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and they often convince the cowboy that the fun is over.

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But the contest goes on with each member of the event giving it their best shot.

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This seems like it could have interesting consequences as the cowboy appears to orbit around the horse.

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Sometimes it’s just time to call it a day.

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This bucking strap lying on the arena floor is a story in itself. Is the cross on the bell for the cowboy or the bull? Or both? Is it a prayer for the bull to be at his best so the rider looks good at the end of his 8 seconds or a prayer that his insurance will cover the damages. There are dozens of stories attached to this simple rig, we’ll leave it up to you to fashion the one you like best.

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With bulls there’s no fooling around. They’re ready from the moment they enter the bucking chutes. The cowboy gets on, the bull politely asks the arena men to open the door, then back up everybody, it’s about to get hairy in here.

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It’s not over when the bull bucks the cowboy off. As ar as it’s concerned there needs to be a little more stomping, and perhaps some perforation involved, then it might be done. That’s why the rodeo clowns are paying such close attention. Think of them as mediators.

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It doesn’t seem possible for the bull to contort into as many positions as it can in such a small space and in such a short period of time. But ask any bull rider, they can and do.

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They also have the ability to spring straight up into the air. That’s close to a ton of steaks leaping like a gazelle. It’s going to hurt when he lands.

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As previously noted the bull is very focused on removing the cowboy from its back. This usually doesn’t take very long as there are not a lot of completed 8 second rides. But the real fun for the bull begins when the cowboy hits the ground. Then he’s in the bulls world.

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And the bull tries to make it personal. This is what it looks like when it is bull vs. cowboy. If you are one of those who think, that doesn’t look that hard, that bull riding thing, then it is suggested you study the above image some more. Or better yet try it. With experience comes wisdom.

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The rodeo finally came to a close and it was getting dark fast. The smoke from the western fires began to move in and it felt more like an eclipse as the sun burned a deep red and slowly settled below the horizon. A fitting sight for an exciting day.

Crow Fair 2015 Post Parade Gathering

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After gathering together before the parade began the participants of the 2015 Crow Fair Parade then passed through the camp on the parade route and returned to the staging area. The streets were lined with hundreds of parade viewers, most sitting in folding camp chairs, some standing, kids running and following along the sidelines becoming a part of the parade too. It was a very hot day, well over a hundred degrees and everywhere you looked there were umbrellas to keep off the sun and water bottles coming out of coolers.  The parade had traveled down through the assembled teepees, over 1200 of them this year, and followed along the Little Bighorn river before returning to the staging area to disassemble and find out who won for best in their categories.

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As the first group in the parade the color guard returned and furled their flags

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Then individuals returned

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Women of the Elk Tooth category remained in formation as they returned to the staging area

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As always seeing the various parade members up close and admiring the trappings on them and their horses up close was a thrill

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This could as easily be a photograph from the mid-1800’s as a modern one. Time travel was possible here today if your imagination was strong enough.

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There was a much more relaxed atmosphere now that the parade was over

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Fathers bring their kids back

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Mom’s too, even if they were ready for a nap

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A gentle touch for a beloved horse, perhaps a moment to enjoy what just transpired

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Generations riding together enjoying the companionship

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Everyone taking in the experience

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Some perhaps a little less than the others, but it’s been a long hot day full of excitement and now that it’s over a well deserved yawn is ok.

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Every type of look imaginable is here, from painted faces to simple yet striking horse trappings

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A smile is always worth a picture

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The tribes were always quick to adopt new things so sunglasses fit right in

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Young members of the tribe watch carefully, everything is a learning experience

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There were a lot of smiles scattered throughout the gathering

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Hundreds of Elk Teeth adorn this blanket. Attention to detail was paramount

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Mischievous smiles were also included

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So were good old-fashioned honest ones. There is a lot of joy amongst the people.

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There are still a few chores to be done even at the end of the parade. Holding the horse is one, a big responsibility for a small girl.

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Apparently the parade was a little taxing for one member and a break was indicated.

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This group was chosen as best in their various categories, although every single participant in the parade was a winner.

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Above you see the members of the Parade committee. These tireless participants made this incredible event happen, dedicating time and energy and their boundless enthusiasm to put the parade together. They deserve the praise and thanks of anyone who was in the parade or viewed it. Thanks for and incredible effort, and thanks for an incredible parade. You were amazing.